AFRICAN INDEPENDENCE @50: In 1960, referred to by some as "The Year of Africa," 17 African states gained their independence, following the lead of Ghana in 1957. Among them, Senegal is now celebrating its 50th year of independence. It is something to be celebrated, but also an appropriate moment to pause, honestly discuss the state of affairs and envision a path forward. This is not only important in terms of the country and continent's economical development, but also its strategic position in the world, its unity, its role in global affairs (i.e. Haiti crisis), etc. There is much to be decided, much to be acted upon. Here I'd like to share my vision of tomorrow's "Africa", in abstract. My toast to Africa and her brilliant future.

I see a land of unlimited potential. One of the most frustrating things to come to terms with is being without electricity in a country where there is almost always sunshine and wind from the Atlantic. I see future urban and rural landscapes powered by energy expertly harvested (by Africans) from the sun and wind. I envision renewable energy training facilities to prepare for and fill the inevitable plethora of green jobs created by a new sustainability policy adhered to by the public and private sectors and subsidized by the government. 

A more specific example of how this eco-friendly vision could be manifested in Dakar: Every fall Dakar and its poor suburbs flood, displacing thousands of families, disrupting micro-economies, and causing a public health nightmare. This happens every year and yet the government acts like it has been caught completely off guard each time. I see a government, led by innovative leaders who are willing to listen to the needs of the population, hosting an international forum of eco-friendly design, urban planning, and crisis management to come up with a creative and sustainable solution to this problem (and possibly channeling the rainwater in a more productive way). This, in my mind, is the most ideal type of private-public partnership, one in which partners are on equal terms. Should the World Bank or any other traditional creditor wish to fund it, they would be welcomed under a whole new set of equitable terms (and would be less likely to be reincarnated as dung beetles in future lives :-P).

I envision a return to subsistence agriculture, in the sense that national and intra-continental policies focus on developing African agricultural sectors to meet popular needs rather than exporting European-determined cash crops and importing rice from Thailand, cotton products from the U.S., chocolate from Europe...etc. This would mean building up a manufacturing sector to produce finished products instead of exporting raw goods (only to buy them back in plastic wrapping and at higher prices). Whether through "a more perfect" African Union similar to the EU, with its policies of economic fluidity and protectionism, or through loose trade agreements that favor intra-contenental deals above inter-contenental ones. It's about time Africa acted selfishly. 

It is already clear that, ironically, the continent's general lack of communications infrastructure has allowed it to leap frog into the world of wireless tech free from the burden of cables and landlines. I see a future of more mobile banking, wireless public computer terminals,and wireless innovation in the education, public health, good governance (anti-corruption), and local business development sectors. Imagine being able to report, by cell phone, any public servant requesting a bribe with a guarantee of immediate follow up. Public access to information and resources is a pre-requisite for governmental transparency. Here is an example of wireless and mobile technology being used by citizens from Kenya, Ghana, South Africa...etc to respond to situations of social unrest and, more recently, Haiti's earthquake response.

Others have already started building an Africa in which the best and brightest young minds are not shipped overseas to be trained within Euro-centric academic settings. I foresee a rich network of schools like the African Leadership Academy, offering an alternative to secondary education in Europe and the U.S. and promoting leadership, social entrepreneurship, and a do-it-yourself attitude towards problem solving. Beyond the practical skill-set promoted in these new centers of learning, the academic curricula will focus on African histories, languages, arts, scientific discoveries, academics...etc. And for those who cannot afford private education, publicly funded schools that provide both academic and vocational training with an emphasis on homegrown industries including green jobs, tech, manufacturing, and social enterprise.

Lastly, I see an Africa sure of herself and her image abroad. She is not the stereotypical "mama Africa" often cast as overly maternal (always thinking and caring for others, not herself), and a little outdated. She is strong, independent, young and trendy. She does not need to explain herself to others, nor does she need to be revitalized, for she is all that is fresh. I see this in the arts, particularly in the growing fashion scene,  design, and social media. I hope to see more of this in the way Africa presents herself to the world proactively rather than being (mis)represented by others. This does not necessarily mean denying any faults and making grandiose gestures beyond her means (i.e. Wade to Haitians), but portraying a more holistic and up-to-date image of Africa's many realities.

I could go on and there will no doubt be more added in future posts. I'm truly excited by this rich potential and eager to get my MBA and jump into the process of realizing this vision that I believe is shared by many. I know these points are somewhat simply stated, but they are meant to just give a taste of what can and, I'm sure, will be. It is also important to note that I've chosen to only focus on what Africa herself should do - I have plenty of other recommendations to external actors who have, in many ways, set the continent back within the last 50 years. But we are not limited to finger-pointing. We are too fabulous and full of future potential for that.

Whether or not you are African, you've traveled to part of Africa, or are deeply familiar with Senegal or any other countries on this mighty continent, you can still envision some aspect of its future. Perhaps a different representation in the U.S.? Maybe stronger diaspora relations? More African-based opportunities for inter-cultural exchange? What is your 50th "African Independence" celebration wish?

Operation Tabaski! Over the past month or so Dakar has been absolutely overrun by moutons (sheep) in what is unofficially known as Operation Tabaski. In preparation for the religious holiday, which took place on Saturday, people set up small enterprises to sell sheep to Dakar residents at prices ranging from $60 to $2,000, depending on the breed of course. This veritable mouton industry is in interesting and significant part of the country's informal economy, complete with its own terminology (the most expensive breed of sheep is referred to as the "limousine") and social hierarchy. Out of curiosity and in support of neighborhood friends and entrepreneurs, Papis, Malang and Mustafa, I decided to document their Operation Tabaski mouton-selling activities for what will hopefully become a tool for them to attract future investments via micro-finance. I will post the video, filmed by myself and Papis, as soon as possible.


Now that the holiday has passed, the city has been reclaimed by humans and I can open my windows without encountering the drift of offensive mouton odor. I spent Tabaski at maambooy's house as usual and ate enough mouton over the weekend to last me until next year. Today at work I exchange belated Tabaski greetings with colleagues and students, some of whom are vegetarian and still shared in the festivities, others who are traumatized and intend to become vegetarian the moment they return home.


Here are some photos of Tabaski-wear:

Below are my two roomies, Sonya, a Barnard Senior currently in Dakar, and Mariam Diop, talented fashion designer.
And the winnder for most creative Tabaski outfit design goes to....Yacine Ba for her black bassin onesy with hot pink beaded belt creation. Fabulous.

Winner for most elegant 'Traditional' Tabaski outfit goes to Aminata Ndao for her white and gold boubou.

Back in NYC! I love living in Senegal, but I must say it does feel good to be home! I arrived on Monday morning and am still pretty jet-lagged so I haven't gotten around to calling and visiting folks yet...but I will! I will be here for a month spending time with family and friends, attending a prep course for the GMAT exam I will take (along with the GRE) before I return, and meeting with grad students, professors and professionals to collect as much information and advice about the grad school as possible. I have a very full month ahead.


When I came into the city in an airport shuttle from JFK, I was overwhelmed by what felt like an onslaught of ruthless advertising: eat this, but don't gain weight, look like this, buy me to loose weight and look like this, wear this, drive this, buy me to make your life shinier, happier, sexier.....believe me, you NEED this.


The other day I was walking back home from a jog in riverside park (glorious! so green and fresh) when I saw a man on a bench dressed up as a twelve year old girl. He was wearing candy striped leggings, a tight top with a Van Gogh print, and a pink scrunchie held back his stringy, gray ponytail. He sat there casually flipping through a newspaper, impervious to my curious gaze. New York City - you gotta love it.

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On another note, a couple of weeks ago Duma and I went to visit a well known Senegalese artist named Kansi. He and his wife, Musahna Ali (from Philly), are living about 3 hours outside of Dakar in a warehouse turned studio/gallery/living space. They are working with a team of masons and the local community to build a holistic art center using ancient mud brick and sacred arch construction techniques. It is a very ambitious, but necessary project that will not only promote and preserve the traditional arts of the region but will restore a sense of pride and productivity to the local population.


It was really fun to be able to spend time out in the open country side (nothing but baobab trees and shrubs for miles with a few cows thrown into the mix) with Kansi, Musahna and their beautiful kids. Duma and I made our own little mosquito net tent among the tents that the family and their guest friend/architect, Coleman, sleep in. Now looking back, it's incredible to think about how different life is and the world looks from the other side. Air smells different. Stars look farther away. Time has a different rhythm.


Recently one of my students sent me an email describing her transition back to life in America after spending a semester in Senegal. She said she is giving presentations about Senegal to her cousin's 5th grade class as part of her plan to promote cross cultural exploration. She included a list of questions she is frequently asked by adults (relatives, professors, acquaintances) and another list from children (the 5th graders). The questions from adults are proof that there is such thing as a stupid question (e.g. do they eat people?). The questions from the kids are sincere and genuinely curious (e.g. what does the language sound like? what kind of games do they play?).


I found this somewhat comforting. In spite of the ubiquitous ignorance about 'Africa,' there is some hope that in the future Senegal won't seem so far away.

An Update: The semester is over! We went on our final program trip at the beginning of the month (to the river delta region of Sine Saloum on the beautiful island of Mar Lodj). Then came exams, the re-entry session to prep students for counter-culture shock and advise them on how to leverage their study abroad experience in networking and interviews, and the farewell dinner. Now Serigne and I are just working on submitting grades and end of year reports before enjoying a nice long break.

In the mean time, I've met with an old acquaintance from my work with AWOMI in 2006, Coumba Toure, who is now the West Africa representative of Ashoka. For those who don't know, Ashoka is an international organization that supports social entrepreneurs through a fellowship program. It is Echoing Green's peer, but different in that it doesn't focus on start-ups and is more established internationally with regional offices and programs. Coumba came to speak to our students about gender issues and public health in Senegal (one of her many areas of expertise as activist, Ashoka rep, and childrens' book author). She mentioned that she is brainstorming around the best way to establish a new 'Youth Venture' program in the region that will fit well within the West African context and a) spread the word about social entrepreneurship; b) encourage young people to use social entrepreneurship as a way to fix local problems big and small; and c) provide support for them to do this. I jumped on board to help with brainstorming, research and yes - a little fundraising. Last week was Ashoka's regional fellow-selection period so one of their founding board members was in town. I was fortunate enough to have dinner with him, Coumba and an Ashoka intern, Simon, during which he entertained us with stories of narrowly escaping Suharto's secret police in Indonesia in the 60's due to his dissertation research on the entrenched corruption of the forestry industry and other equally exciting adventures. I'm looking forward to possibly working more with Coumba and the team to develop a network of young social entrepreneurs in the region. It's nice to know that now that I've been introduced to the world of social entrepreneurship, its lingo, its network, I can still continue to learn and contribute in various capacities anywhere in the world - thanks EG!

Another interesting update is that a couple of weeks ago I was invited to speak at the 25th anniversary of my old elementary school, the International School of Dakar (ISD). I'm sure it's pretty hard for most international schools to keep up with their alumni who are constantly in flux - so they were really excited to hear that I was in town. I must admit that I got really nervous about speaking - I'd been asked to speak once in the afternoon to the student and faculty/staff assembly and again in the evening to board members, parents and invited dignitaries. Mind you, in the evening I was to share the stage with the U.S. Ambassador and many of the parents are ambassadors themselves. But in the end all went well and I was thanked and complimented by students, teachers and parents, which was nice. It was amazing to see how much has changed and also to reunite with several of my former teachers who are still there. Overall it was a nice experience that allowed me to reminisce but also appreciate just how much I've grown since my own years at ISD.

Well I'm afraid I have to end this update because I have to run to a performance. This week is the Kaay Fecc international dance festival (kaay fecc means "Come Dance!" in Wolof). The cousin of a friend is performing in an hour and I promised to go watch. Last night's performance ranged from the incredible to the incomprehensible. Who knows what conceptual art delights tonight holds in store....